Day 23-26: Chicago!

We are a wee bit speechless! The hottie in Pink, sweet Sharyn, the Host of Hosts, the senior part of the Holich Sistah Duo, warmly and wholeheartedly allowed us access to her Chicago Old Town Studio! She has made such an impression in our trip’s experience! Mind you, us boys are countryfolk and for us to even to have Sears Tower as bedroom view is slightly unreal.    To top it off, the other half of the Holich Sistah duo, my beloved Lynda, knows how to honor our milestone of having safely made it to Chicago! That bottle did not live long I tell you! Perfect medicine to wind down from 22 days of extensive bikeriding! We slept more than well on our first night in this very vibrant Metropolis. Just riding out from Union Station and into Sharyns place in Old Town at dusk was a memorable experience.   Here are the bros resting on our first day in The Windy City.  

   Our bedroom view, straight downtown Chicago, with Sears Tower in the background, for a long time the tallest building in the world.   Even Jack was struck by the view of this great city. He even forgot to put his clothes on.   Time to keep the legs high. Resting feels good after all our physical efforts the last 3 weeks.  Of course Per is still searching for the perfect seat for his Tush. Here he is seeking the advice from Mr. Nyberg at Village Bicycle. Turned out he has a swedish father. Roar, normally a wine connoseur, is learnin how intimate connection there is between biking and beer:)    Roar’s breakfast view, with Sharyn’s thriving orchides.   We all are working out our ways of travelling by bike. That means simplifying and lowering travel weight. Another package was send home with stuff that have rendered itself obselete.   After having ridden through weeks of endless farmland, we have entirely met different surroundings.     I am so pleased to see that biking is so big in Chicago. The city has a very extensive network of bikelanes thru the entire city that allows for very swift and secure moving around the urban areas. I am lovin the bikevibe here!             If you are even slightly interested in bicycles, a place worth seing is Heritage Bicycles on Lincoln st. Serves you delicious coffeebrews and is passionate about bicycling.         Emily served me the best Cortado I have had in a long while, on the house for all of us, mind you, due to the fact that we doing the xcountry ride. Can  coffee be served with any bigger smile?    Now on our last night here, upon returning to Sharyns apartment building we are greeted by the doorman Josh and his sweet and mesmerizing tunes on his guitar. Turns out he has great interest in Gypsy Style guitars, as pulled of by late Django Rheinhart. He is also a big fan of Hot Club de Norvège. He told me he had sold several guitars through his online dealership to happy Norwegian customers.

Some doorman if you ask me! Boyz are rested through our days here in Chicago, thanks to Sharyn. We will make our way out of this big city tomorrow. Seattle awaits us!

Thank you Sharyn!!! Thank you Chicago!!! You are both wildly friendly! A peculiar and lovin Vibe in the both of ya!

Peace Profound!

Day 20-21-22: Michigan-Milwaukee, WI-Chicago, IL

Michigan has surprised us with strong winds, most often directly ahead. With fully loaded touring bikes, winds make an especially large difference. Our average speeds have gone down substantially, meaning daily mileage as low as 55 km, other days we have been doing 100-130 km. This state might have unfriendly winds, but the friendliness of the Michigan people have totally compensated for that fact.           Among the friendly people we have met is Steven. We met him in a park in Alma, where he was hanging out with his wife and grandkids. They were on a TET tandem, with the grandkids on tow in separate wagons.  Quite a train!  It turned out Steven was one the organizers of all the efforts in maintaining the Fred Meijer Heartland RailTrail. He and all his fellow volunteers sure have been doing a great job. This long trail from Alma to Greenville has been the best railtrail experience sofar. Perfect pavement, with toilets and benches along the way. We were able to join Steven for a beer and we even accidentally met again down the trail for some food and a new beer.             This is what happens after days of fighting Michigan winds and not to forget Michigan sized breakfast and dinnerplates. Food knocked me, even us all out.   On our way to Muskegon we met with this friendly cowboy, Buck Wells. He turned around to catch up with us, to have a chat over our adventure and other more important aspects of life in general and Racoon dicks in particular. He has the bone from one hanging from his handlebar on his scooter. Meeting Buck was definately one of the highlight of the day.   We ended our Michigan experience today, with a 40 km ride from Crockery Creek Campsite to Muskegon Ferry Terminal. We were up 5.30 this morning and on the road by 7.00. Quick rainshowers soaked us already from the get go, but the warm ambient temperatures and later the sun, soon dried us up. After a 2 1/2 hour boatride we landed in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Sadly we did not have much time to spend in a city that really tickled my fancy. There is something that I would like to come back to and experience more of here.   One stop made here today was with The Bike Fixers,   We were very kindly helped by Derrick. He works in the front of the store and he also works with custom bikebuilding at Schlick Cycles, A great guy to talk to, competent and without any stupid annoying arrogance. He tipped us with, a great source for assessing wind in this country. After Michigan this source of information will be used for all it’s worth:)

  After our time with Derrick, we rode back downtown to the Amtrak station. We are taking the train down to Chicago. Sharyn, Lynda’s sister has kindly let us use her apartment downtown Chicago for a few days. We have been on the road now for 22 days, 21 of which we have been riding. We all need some time off the bikes now, before we take on the midwest. Some rest, some repairs and some restocking of provisons are needed.  I am also in need of a haircut and some trimming of my beard. Amtrak requires bikes to be boxed up before shipment. I also got my very first flat tire today, after having ridden about 1700 km, it happens right outside the trainstation. Perfect timing really:)  Next stop Chicago! If anyone thinks we are cheating by doing a trainride, I can inform you that we are actually adding to the total mileage by doing what we are doing.

Oh, I forgot to tell you about us making fame in the local newspaper in Greenville! Here’s the story as told by their journalist Brad Klosner:

Until next update! Peace Profound! 

Day 17-18-19: Michigan

This is the task at hand now, crossing the state of Michigan. The plan was to cut the stretch of 415 km into four segments of about 100 km each. On paper it doesn’t seem like much, but Michigan is flat and open wide with strong winds. The first day had quite a bit of rain in store for us, so we took shelter at a foodmarket. We needed to do some food shopping anyhow as we had to dump our leftover food before reentering the US. You are not allowed to bring any food into this country and we were not going to risk any issues at the borders. I have had enough grumpy officers the border crossing into the US before. The officers in the Sombra-Marine City crossing though completely revised my somewhat negative views of US Immigration. The people in charge at Newark airport should send their people to Marine City so that they can learn how to treat people properly and with smiles. Kudos to the good people in uniform in Marine City, Michigan. Too bad I don’t have any photos to prove my point!    They had hotdogs as today’s special at Neyman foodmarket. 1 dollar a shot! Not bad for hungry bikers. Not the healthiest choice, but that is of less concern when you are needing in excess of 5000 calories a day. Stomachs may ache and scream, but so does Roars legs and hips. He has been talking about needing a massage for days now, so when this chance came up, we hit the brakes and rolled in. Unfortunately the massage therapist was off this day, so Roar had to settle for a good half hour in the massage chair, free of charge. Though the search for a real massage session continues.   Michigan has given us several railtrails to ride on. They convert old railway into bike and hiketrails. Perfect use of what otherwise would just regrow with trees and bush.   Our first night in Michigan was spent in a rather boring, but comfortable motelroom at Best Western in Port Huron. The first day was cold and wet, and we ended our day on the early side. The next day was a completely different sheet of paper. Clear skies and temperatures round 20-25 degrees Celcius. Weather makes such a difference, especially when you are biking. After a good while of riding we stumbled upon Norway Bar. A place of splendour. Unfortunately the place was closed, even though the sign claimed the opposite. After all, we were all ready for a good karaoke to carry us through the day…    Michigan hosts parts of the US Bikeroute 20, that apart from the trails continues to allow bikers safe travels along broad roadshoulders.   Our second night was finally going to happen in our tents again. We were warmly greeted by Kim, the Boss on Krystal Lake Campground, a few miles away from the town of Mayville. Kim runs the show with his wife. They work hard through the season to make sure their visitors have a good time with friends and family. In the winter they migrate to Florida to get away from the gruelling Michigan winters. Last winter was especially hard.   Michigan is country, and flat country at it. Huge farmlands with very mechanized and industrial farming. Monocultures for sure, with mostlycorn, soya, beets and some more corn.  Much less livestock here than in the other areas we have been biking through sofar. The soil seem more sandy and less vital. If that is so due to the soil itself or the effect of years of intensive industrial farming I am not sure.        I found this Wunderbaum on the roadside. Clever thing to make use of as you tend to start smelling after days in the saddle. Yup, country is it.     Just when we were thinking Michigan was all about corn, soy and wind, we are met with awesome friendliness. Cailey, the beauty in white had just hosted her High School graduation party. They had plenty of food to share. A dream come through or a prayer answered for any long distance biker.     Any mom can be proud to have raised a child into such a beautiful person.   Here she is with her friend Amanda and her mom’s longtime friend Pat. Shiny happy Women!  Needless to say, we were full of good, homemade food when we said goodbye and took off. (They even packed up food to take with us) We asked them for the closest campsite and were given direction to these happy people at the Lake of Dreams Campground. Bob is boss here with his wife Elaine and they made sure we were given access to a cabin for the night. Free of charge mind you! This happens just as we were recovering from the overwhelming frindliness at Cailey’s party. Bob even invited us all over for a campfire and some beer later.  

   Thank you Michigan! You are such a bunch of goodness!

Meanwhile, in Michigan: 

To be continued….


Day 14-15-16: Stony Creek, ON to Sombra, ON

 We have been riding in Canada a few days now.  It has been a good experience. Nice campsites and very friendly people. Among them is Elaine who owns Pieriks Cycle, a bikeshop in Hamilton, Ontario. Roar had his mind set on getting new tires on his bike, especially due to his punctures a few days ago. Elaine took good care of him and had a pair of Specialized Infinity Armadillos installed. He might end up riding flatless all the way to Seattle now! He even installed a new and improved red taillight. Very much needed, especially here in Canada where road shoulders are almost nonexistant and drivers are obviously not so accustomed to dealing with bikers ahead of them.   Fortunately we were able to ride on dedicated railtrails for long stretches, avoiding motorized vehicles almost entirely. We mostly had to deal with large amounts of squirrels and chipmunks.  Don’t want to be killing any fellow travellers!    We have seen huge amounts of farmland, with many types of crop and livestock. There is a sweet smell of cow manure almost around every farm. Smells like perfume for a guy with farmer’s blood.     On this campsite we were robbed of precious hemp seeds and delicious nuts, by a nightly visitor. I woke round 3 in the morning by the sound of someone digging into bikebags and plasticbags. I exited the tent with my headlamp on, seeing two glowy eyes stare back at me.  

It quickly became obvious who was behind the robbery, the racoon, famous for their cleverness in their pursuit of food. At least we supplied this bandit with precious fatty acids, as hempseeds are a unique source of all the Omega 3, 6 and 9s. The racoon know what nurtures him!

For the most part Google Maps have guided us safely and swiftly through both the urban and rural scenes. But every now and then things get a little confused.     You have got to have your divine goals set properly!  Say hi to Tracy and Mark and their fourlegged familymembers, Zinga, a 14 yr old golden retriever and the Norwegian Woodcat, didn’t catch his name.  He seems to enjoy the good life. They all warmly and wholeheartedly picked us up from the streets and allowed us camping in their backyard. Clean towels and warm showers were offered, as were cold beers and good conversations. Meeting good people like this makes this trip so worth the effort and saddlesores.     Camp on the our 16th day in was set on River St. Clair in Sombra, Ontario. This river connects Lake Huron from the north with Lake St. Clair by Detroit and eventually drains into Lake Erie.  We are crossing the river tomorrow, putting us back into the US and Marine City, Michigan. We will ride on toward Muskegon on shore of Lake Michigan, should be able to do this in 3-4 days depending on conditions. 

All well with all of us. 


Day 13: Lockport, NY to Stony Creek, ON, Canada

During all the waiting we revisited the idea of cutting across parts of Ontario, Canada, reenter the US just north of Detroit and on  through the state of Michigan, and take the expressferry across lake Michigan to Milwaukee, Wisconsin. This way we avoid the bad areas south of Chicago.  Several people we have talked to has made it clear to us that much of those areas simply are to dangerous, with a lot of gangs and random shooting and robbery. By cutting through Ontario we also cut away with some mileage. Good for us all, but me especially, considering my 45 days timelimit. The pros and cons of riding in a group, you have to adapt to the pace of others, even if that pace is slower than you prefer. On the other side the members support eachother along the way and provides added security. 
Both Roar and I had never been to Canada before, so it is nice in it self, to add another country to the list of places been. Needless to say we only get to see a tiny fraction of this huge land during the few days we will be here. Sofar what we notice most is how much worse the roads are here compared to the US side. Often there is literally no shoulder to bike on and the Canadian drivers are far less considerate than even the NY drivers. Otherwise the Canadians seem very friendly and hospitable. They have wicked strange accents though. The day was our first day without seeing the sun at all. The air was very moist from last rainfall and we started out with raingear. Crossing Canada was a bit awkward with bikes and we struggled a little to find an US immigration officer to talk to in order to verify our ability to reenter the US from a third country while on an ESTA visa. The guy in the booth gave the the green, so we have faith in his statement. If proven wrong I guess we have to make it to Vancouver instead. The Niagara Falls wasn’t much to write home about. Been there, Seen that. Guess as Norwegians we are a bit hard to mesmerize when it comes to natural beauty and splendor. 

We biked about 100km total today and found campsite in Stony Creek, a township just south of Hamilton, on the shore of Lake Ontario. Safe, clean, water, showers and power.  Even got to dry some socks!

 Nuff said…we are moving into Day 14, a day with full sun. Get to work on the tanlines today. 

Oh, Btw, Jack got a new hairdo…his long hair had been thinning out from all the riding up front, so we agreed he needed a trim. He was happy! 

The Erie Canal

On this very gray, cold and rainy day, what better to do than to do a write up on the Erie Canal, along which we have been travelling for about a week. 

Americans have been a restless lot with strong urges for expansion. Everywhere on earth natural rivers and waterways have been essential for developement of society. Just look at the Nile, Tigris, Euphrates, Ganges or the large european rivers like the Danube and Rhein. In the US the Erie canal opened up the west, by connecting the rich areas around the Great Lakes to the Hudson river, which allowed for transportation of huge amounts of resources and merchandise out to the New York City seaport and eventually granting access to the world markets. The Erie Canal made New York the Empire State and New York the nation’s prime seaport and seat of world trade.  

 The idea of building the canal belonged to Jesse Hawley, a flour merchant in the town of Geneva,  NY.

President at the time Thomas Jefferson thought of it as madness. A reaction many great visionary ideas receives by contemporaries. DeWitt Clinton, then New York City mayor considered the ideas worth looking into. Several efforts were made between 1810 and 1816 by Clinton and supporters to receive federal financing for the project, but was denied at every attempt. Things changed in 1817 as Clinton became governor of New York.  Work commenced on July 4th 1817, as ground was broken in Rome, NY by unskilled workers. The original project, that linked Buffalo to the Hudson at Albany was completed October 26, 1825. Some feat considering all the labor needed to build a total of 83 stonewalled locks that lowered and lifted boats. Lake Erie sits 570 feet higher than the Hudson river at Albany. It soon proved the sceptics wrong as the area was buzzing with activity and drew people from all over the world to the area seeking work and opportunity. Building upon the success of the original canal, New York State funded the expansion by allowing the building of the Oswego, Cayuga-Seneca, Chemung, Crooked Lake and Chenango canals. The system was steadily expanded and improved to allow for bidirectional movement of boats and barges. Early 1900s allowed for selfpropelled vessels. The locks were now electrically operated by hydroelectrical power generated at the individual locks. They could now pass boats and barges up to 300 feet long.  

       In 1959 the St. Lawrence Seaway that connects the Great Lakes directly to the Atlantic through Canadian land, meant a steep decline to the commercial use of the New York canal system. In 2000 Congress established the Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor to aid preserving and interpret how the canals influenced the development of the nation. 

Biking along the Erie and meeting excellent ambassadors for the Canal as John (Janek) has really opened my eyes to important driving forces behind the might of this nation, a might the world has been affected by, for good and for bad. 

Tomorrow we will also expand westward. Needless to say our expansion will not affect the world in the same way. We will consume some burgers and beers and maybe leave a skid mark or two along the way. 

Day 11: Brockport, NY to Lockport, NY

Today was a day of fighting the northwestern winds coming from the Great Lakes. They never gave us a break today. At least they had a cooling effect, as the sun was strong and temperatures close to 30 celcius. It was hard to maintain a good steady pace at any average speed beyond 20 km/h. 

The landscape is flattening out and we are seeing farms grow in size. A lot of cornfields, but we passed several fruit orchards and fields of hop. We could see how they use chemicals to erradicate any plant other than the corn. In large areas there is a bad smell of spraying chemicals. As someone that grew up on a farm, tractors have a pull on me. This one is an older Rome with big Cummings diesel with alot of power.
  And a newer Case tractor with corn seeder.   We stopped for Perry Icecream on our way.       I believe this is a field of hop.   Town of Medina, NY.   Finally we have reached the most eastern county of New York. We will stay in Lockport, a small city bordering Buffalo, NY. Weatherforcast for the next two days means alot of rain and thunderstorms, so we installed ourselves in a motel. We are not going to bike tomorrow as the rain is going to get worse and not until early hours monday. So tomorrow will be a day of rest and chores.

Day 10: Newark, NY to Brockport, NY

Man, hard to believe we are 10 days in. Time is definately askewed. Great feeling really. Biking simplifies, clarifies, unites and brings you into the moment.  Its difficult to recall just what happened when and where. Forcing myself to do a blogentry each night helps memory. 

The days always begin with packing up. Finally each of us are findind the best way for each of us to do so. 

Roar, who usually is on the slow side of packing, is really getting his act together. He was the first one done and ready to ride today. We start our days with very simple oatmeals, prepared at camp. Then we tend to ride for an hour or two before we have an early lunch and a respectable cup of coffee. That instant stuff at camp simply doesn’t cut it. Today we struck gold, in  finding the Muddy Waters café. This place is run by Donna, a kind soul that serves good food and coffee along the canal. It’s nice to encounter people like Donna, with big smiles and strong opinions. Look closely and you may spot her take on Monsanto.   

She, as so many others have been disappointed in Obama, with all his big fancy talk and funny walks, often through a Congress dominated by obstructive forces. At least Donna loves her holy trinity, Bells, Onions and Celery. Most often these keep their promise, adding to good and healthy food.   Donna loves Fire Cider. That stuff repels wolves. Lynda introduced me to the stuff.  It is an old New England recipe for a health tonic, based on raw and unfiltered apple cider vinegar with horseraddish, ginger and cayenne pepper, plus other natural ingredients I am sure. It helps you maintain a healthy gut, which in turn help your own body fight off any invasive forces of illness. The stuff is made in Pittsfield, MA, a place we rode through on out trip. I thought of going the see the people behind the Fire Cider, but it didnt materialize. Maybe on another ride into western Massachussetts. We need to get ourselves to Seattle, some faster than others.   Often we ride next to older parts of the Erie Canal, parts that have not seen use in years. They are taken over by trees and all kinds of animals, birds, fish and insects. There are plenty of fresh water snapping turtles lurking in these waters too. They can grow big and be a little dangerous. So can pieces of glass that gets stuck in bicycle tires. This was Roars day of punctures. Not what he generally fixes,  but today he was forced. This is knowledge any biker must possess. Roar rides a fancy German Rohloff Internal Gear system, which can be a bit finnicky to release.     After some good effort, work was done. Roar was feeling good from his success. As all teachers know, repetition is the mother of learning. A few miles down the road, the same thing happened again. This time we picked out several pieces of glass that might have been the cause. Roar decided to get himself a pair of new tires. We spotted a bikeshop in the town we ended up staying in.             I sure didn’t know Waldo or even where he was or is for that matter. But, we as bikers have to give it to the guy!    Roar is flyin’ down the trail. These settings are his favorite. He is not too fond of traffic and city biking.   Shale rock, common in the area.   Per is nicely seated and enjoys life!  As Norwegians we are often travelling to the country of Sweden for shopping at low prices across the border. Today we got to roll into the town of Sweden. It wasn’t much of a town.     Boyz carbin up real well! Seems like we are drinking our way through the country, one local beer at the time. Per likes his wheat beer, Roar favors the IPAs and I usually care for them all, but usually end up with ambers. Tomorrow is supposed to see some heavy rainshowers. We all thought it best to go inside for the side. We ended up in a B&B in Brockport. No sign of rain sofar, at the time of writing this, 5 am morning after, so I guess we could have saved us the cost. But that we didnt know. 

Todays goal is undefined, other than finding new tires for Roar. We will see what the day has in store for us!

Thank you for showing interest. Feel free to make comments or just send a little greeting. It is nice to see some feedback as you pedal, and pedal and pedal. 

Day 9: Baldwinsville, NY to Newark, NY

As previously reported, Roar bought a bike GPS yesterday and was therefore given the task of bringing us safely to Palmyra, NY. It was learning by doing all the way. Per followed running Google Maps for navigation.  The goal was to get them both up to speed on both tools, much needed as we will part in a few days. It was also interesting to see how both of the navigation platforms chose their routes. So far the Google-calculated routed have been more or less spot on. Google always amaze me. Modern day travelling means always looking for an outlet to charge up electronics. Fortunately the stops along the canal offer both water and power. Crossing the Seneca River. Todays riding took us through much farmland. Most the farms are of moderate size, comparable to Norwegian sizes. This area seems to have more dairy farms than seen sofar. In many places manure is being spread and crops seeded.  I am quite surprised that the seeding has not come further than it has here. Seeing animals is always a pleasure, especially when they are allowed to roam freely. These guys were chillin under a tree, a good choice because by then the temps were moving up good.   Cornplants coming up:We stumbled upon these fellows today, Dan and Joel. Dan on the left used to work as a bikemechanic.You have got to take your bikecap off to people riding the Zeus gear. Cisco, are you reading?-) Dan bought these pedals new in the late 70s and they are still going. Just repack with grease and go. Zeus was an spanish brand of cyclecomponents that unfortunately went bust in the 80s. Per obviously more fresh than his bro. We were all in need of some carbs at the time. Healthy food options seem a bit scarce in small places like Savannah, NY. We ended up with some superprocessed snacks.      

As you enter many American towns you see signs for the local masonic lodges. They indicate the great influence the masons have had since the nation’s founding and through to today. Many Presidents were high ranked Masons. The masonic influence in this country is worth a study on its own. We rode alot on the canalway again today. It supplied us with cooling shadows and helped ease the wind a bit. We also rode quite long stretches on the road. Almost all the roads have wide shoulders, but they can be treacherous  with all the sharp gravel, broken glass and small pieces of metal. You have to keep an eye out for what lies ahead, as you need to in life in general I guess.   Our camp for the night. This is Mike, he runs the show on the canal park in Newark, friendly and helpful. Again we are granted free camping with access to warm showers and laundryroom for free, courtesy of the town of Newark. We share the space with people travelling by boat. One group was doing a weeklong canalcruise in a rental vessel. Another group is actually doing the Great Loop that our friend Janek from Lock 14 was talking about. They are out for 14 months total and are travelling with the seasons, hitting the great lakes now as summer begins. They will go down the Mississippi down to the gulf of Mexico before winter. They are in a large seagoing sailboat and the mast is down for moving under the bridges in the canals.     This is Captain Kwak, or John C Kwak, of dutch origin, but an american since several years. He was an exchangestudent to Sundsvall in Sweden back in 1961 and could tell the story of their car ride down southern Norway into Oslo. 

Evening was ended by a late dinner with some good beer at the Corner Tavern. I even got to give Roar a big Margarita as a late birthday present. He seems to be catching onto the beers rather than his wine and now Margarita seem to have thrilled him. He deserved it, I tell you. We rode about 90km today. Rain in the early hours but sunny and fairly warm through the day. Tomorrow we will push as far toward Buffalo as possible in order to take advantage of the northeast on Sunday. Forecast for saturday is lots of rain, so we are wanting to find a dry spot and let saturday be a day of rest. With strong winds from behind we should really fly down the side of lake Erie. 

Enough of today! Time for bed!


Day 8: Syracuse, NY to Baldwinsville, NY

Some campers eh? Looks like a morgue. Well we all slept well and could move into what was to be day of rest and doing some errands. Per just cannot get comfortable on his beautiful new Brooks Cambium C17 saddle. He has decided to seek out a replacement. We even got to do some laundry in the tub at the motel. Things were starting to smell after a week into the trip. We found Syracuse Bicycles as a potential source for a saddle for Per. We were met with super friendly and competent people. One of their employees measured out Per’s precious behind and found that he has rather wide sitbones which requires a wide saddle for comfort. Here are some of the mechanics. See how working with bikes simply cannot make you grumpy! After having spent a good 3 hrs, we took off. I ended up changing out my creaky Ultegra bottom bracket after only some 500 miles. Not good enough if you ask me. Definately thinking of going back to square taper bottom brackets from SKF after this new crank wears out. Roar bought a Garmin bike GPS and Per got his new seat put on. Hopefully it proves itself helpful for his ailments.  

After all this action we were ready for food, our first and also only meal of the day. Afterwards we rode up to Baldwinsville and set camp at Lock 24. A quick phonecall to Janek, our friend from Lock 14 made us certain we could tent as this lock. Thanx Janek for being simply such a good guy! Some daily catches of words of wisdom found throughout the day.    Per is happy to call it a day after a modest 30 miles of riding. His sitbones needs to time to heal.     Sun set beautifully over the canal this night. A nightcap of warm drink. A good day regardless of the modest output in terms of mileage. We got some technical issues sorted out. Tomorrows goal is Palmyra or Rochester, NY. See you there!